MILLERTON — McEnroe Market and Eatery announced Thursday, Feb. 8, that it would be closing its doors at 5400 Route 22.
For 10 years, the little market has stood among the rolling green hills and the long, low, red-shingled building.
At first, it seemed only to be closed for a winter break. Then came the final word: “After a decade of serving the community with farm-fresh produce and delectable organic cuisine, McEnroe Farm Market and Eatery announces its closure.”
McEnroe Organic Farm, which has been around since 1952, will continue farming organic food but will now only be distributing it wholesale, for local restaurants and food markets.
McEnroe Organic Compost and Soils at 194 Coleman Station Road will remain open, and will continue to serve the public for bulk and bagged soil purchase.
McEnroe Market and Eatery was known to locals for baked goods, sandwiches, fresh salads, frozen yogurt, prepared foods, cherry and oatmeal cookies, fries and array of ciders.
The produce was always fresh, and given that there is no retail food market in Millerton, farm stands are important to the locals, and McEnroe’s was a favorite. It was also relied on as a place to get plants in the spring, sunflowers in August, and pumpkins in the fall.
When asked why the business was closing, Olivia Skeen, manager of development, said that COVID-19 had an impact, as did climate change and other factors that caused financial constraints.
Skeen said, “We are currently determining how we will use our market location going forward.”
She also wanted the community to know that the compost facility will remain open and that CSA options will be available. Despite the farm’s turn towards wholesale, she said, any excess produce will be offered to the public via social media.
The farm will still give public tours, and all of its educational programs, which started in 2007, including apprenticeships, will be in place. Its commitment to the community remains intact, said Skeen.
On behalf of the McEnroe and Durst families, Skeen said:
“We deeply appreciate the community support we have received throughout the years. The feedback we have received of our market and eatery closing is a testament of our integral part of the community over the years.”
Judith O'Hara Balfe
McEnroe Farm Market and Eatery
Dan Cohen, left, dispenses whipped cream on a plate of maple syrup treats during a demonstration on the making of maple syrup at Trevor-Lovejoy Zoo on Millbrook School’s campus.
“This is a very seasonal activity, and you’ve got to go while you can,” Tousignant said of the labor-intensive process.
Alan Tousignant stokes a fire in a maple evaporator, a machine that turns maple sap into syrup with heat.Photo by Aly Morrissey
Tousignant first experimented with making maple syrup in a backyard over an open campfire under the stars — a method he said required long nights and wasted much of the heat.
Today, he uses a specialized maple evaporator, a large stainless-steel pan heated by a wood fire from below that allows sap to boil efficiently and continuously.
Sap collected from the trees begins as a clear, watery liquid that contains only about two to two and a half percent sugar, Tousignant explained. Before boiling, the sap is run through a reverse-osmosis process to concentrate the sugar slightly. The liquid then enters the evaporator, where heat gradually removes the water as the sap flows through a series of channels.
By the time the liquid reaches about 215 degrees, the sugar has concentrated enough to become maple syrup.
Tousignant said he is currently collecting sap from around 50 maple trees, some of which have multiple taps. He said one gallon of maple syrup requires around 40 gallons of sap, a process that requires a lot of patience.
“That’s what I call ‘almost syrup,’ he laughed, pointing to a container of darkening liquid that had already been boiled and was completing a filtration process.
“Typically, the early season syrup is lighter, and as the season goes on, it gets darker,” he said. “Toward the end of the season, it can be really dark, almost like walnut syrup.”
Tousignant collects chunks of naturally formed ice that float in the sap buckets when the weather gets cold enough as a way to keep a 300-gallon tank of sap cool to prevent it from spoiling until it can be processed.
Alan Tousignant adjusts the water level in his maple evaporator at the Trevor-Lovejoy Zoo on Millbrook School’s campus on Saturday, March 7.Photo by Aly Morrissey
“I love trying to use Mother Nature to its fullest in a sustainable way,” he said.
He employs the same philosophy in his woodworking, using trees that have already died or fallen or collecting discarded wood pallets from Amazon deliveries to the Millbrook School, saving them from the burn pile.
Raised near the Canadian border in upstate New York, Tousignant said he has always enjoyed working outdoors. As a graduate student, he supported himself with a variety of hands-on jobs to make extra spending money.
“Raking leaves, washing houses, painting, anything to make a little cash for eating and paying the bills,” he said.
It was during this time when Tousignant developed an acronym that now serves as the label for his maple syrup — Hayibaco, short for Home and Yard Improvements by Alan.
This will mark his first year selling his own maple syrup under his custom label, which features an illustrated photo of him in his signature outfit — a plaid shirt and a fleece vest — against a backdrop of his syrup bottles. Syrup will be sold in the gift shop at the Trevor-Lovejoy Zoo and possibly at the Millerton Farmer’s Market in the future.
In addition to Hayibaco, other locally made maple syrup and maple products were available for sale at the tasting, including nearby Soukup Farms in Dover and Russell Farms in Rhinebeck.
Dan Cohen, Trevor-Lovejoy Zoo’s Director of Media, said that zoo attendance typically dips during the winter months. But for many of the zoo’s animals — particularly those who prefer the cold weather — winter can actually be one of the best times to visit.
Animals like Stanley the lynx, Cohen said, are far more active in the cold weather.
Cohen and his colleagues began brainstorming ways to encourage winter zoo visits and were pleased with the success of both a hot chocolate event earlier this year and the maple syrup weekend.
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