Vitsky Bakery turns local surplus into seasonal pastries

WASSAIC — Ariel Yotive has a motto, “Work with what you’ve got.” Her unique Vitsky Bakery in Wassaic has the fruits of that motivation flying off the shelves.

Literally, during apricot season, one of her neighboring farm orchards may be harvesting fresh-off-the-tree fruit that is transformed into danishes. Local hives supply honey for sweet toppings or chunks of honeycomb for a delicious and rustic garnish. “I use what is around,” said the baker.

At Vitsky Bakery, Yotive’s approach has become a defining philosophy. Working closely with nearby farms, beekeepers and gardeners, she creates a constantly shifting menu shaped by the season, surplus and chance, turning overlooked or fleeting ingredients into inventive pastries that have made her Wassaic bakery a destination for locals and weekend visitors alike.

Yotive wanted to be a baker since she was five and has a video of her vowing to do it way back when. Alongside her grandfather, she learned to make bread — and still has his recipes and notes — but got started out in the food trade roasting whole animals and cooking everything in a resort camp in Patagonia.

After a stint at Bard College from 2006 to 2010, she worked at Troutbeck in Amenia and fell in love with the Oblong Valley, where today she has created a warm, sun-splashed mecca for baked goods of all sorts.

Vitsky Bakery is located at the south end of Wassaic’s Main Street, nestled in front of the Metro-North railroad, which flies by behind the counter, and an atmospheric creek that burbles along with its otters and snapping turtles.

There are chairs outside and picnic tables to sip coffee and tea, and even on a brisk, snowy day, a family munched pretzel croissants and traditional hot cross buns. Yotive is still working on getting a café inside.

Yotive’s workday starts at 1:30 a.m., baking bread and proofing yeast. Dozens of muffins take three to four hours, and some mornings in the winter she has to shovel snow. She opens at 8:30 a.m. every Friday, which includes a challah bread special, and on Saturday and Sunday, which feature the big hits: cardamom buns and bialys.

The baker describes her style as rustic with “Frankenstein” touches — meaning she puts together unlikely components. One morning she made croissants that didn’t work out. Rather than trash them, she repurposed them as her famous and madly popular Walnut Croissants, cut in half and rebaked after being filled with walnut frangipane. “I bake what I want and what is local,” she said, avoiding ingredients like lemons which don’t grow in these parts. “I’ve learned to let go of expectations.”

Yotive’s partnership with local organic farms and neighbor-sourced ingredients has created a network of local businesses that help support one another. Part of her philosophy is to be part of the community and bring people together. Yet long hours and driving from farm to farm to collect ingredients takes its toll. “It’s hard to have a social life and a family when you work from the middle of the night to late afternoon, instead of 9 to 5,” Yotive said.

Using fresh also requires long hours preserving and freezing the fruit or vegetables of the moment. Tomatoes later become Focaccia Slices and fruits become bottled jams.

Yotive also has regular bakery items like chocolate croissants, cookie boxes, sunflower bread, babka, honeyoat rye and even some gluten-free options.

Yotive said she tries to allow her brain to combine what is immediately available with a standard item, producing dishes like her Brown Butter Apple Custard, which goes beyond the bakery status quo. “I like to punch it up, try the exotic, and go beyond food culture,” she said, mentioning her Earl Gray Buns. “I try to utilize what I have.”

Most of Vitsky's retail customers are walk-ins, with a steady stream of customers through the day, but she also occasionally sets things aside for call-in orders. Yotive doesn’t make cakes to order but she said customers are glad to accept whatever she has available.

And as for the name? Ariel Yotive’s grandfather dropped the “Vitsky” from the family name “Yotvitsky” so his Quality Bakery didn’t sound too "un-American," Yotive said. Ariel has picked it up and run with it. Her outpost of inventive and enticing baked goods must be visited to be appreciated, an experience best summed up by one customer who bought for his family one of everything that was left. He absentmindedly bit into something he just purchased without knowing the clever name, or the unexpected ingredients, only the flavor that turned his face to joyous wonderment.