WASSAIC — Husband-and-wife duo Arunee Pakaraphag and Jason Jeffords described the opening of their restaurant, Thai Baan, as almost coincidental.
Pakaraphag and Jeffords opened the restaurant last year after an offer from Tenmile Distillery co-owners Joel LeVangia and Eliza Dyson to occupy the distillery’s restaurant space for two years. The duo are now celebrating the start of their second summer with a refreshed menu that continues their commitment to homestyle Thai cooking.
While the space marks the couple’s first restaurant venture, both are career veterans of the hospitality industry who bonded over their shared passion for food and drink.
Jeffords managed sales in New York City for the distillery when he met Pakaraphag on Jan. 22, 2023, after connecting on a dating app.
“The way we met is not necessarily super special,” Jeffords said. “It just worked. That’s the special part.”
As their relationship blossomed, opportunities to cook began to emerge at the distillery when its regular kitchen crew went on vacation or traveled for events.
“It just turned out to be very successful,” Jeffords said. “Everybody loved it.”
Those events revealed a strong appetite for Thai cuisine in the region, leading to a two-year residency that’s currently set to end in February 2027.
The restaurant continues to see success after its first year, Jeffords said, attracting regulars from as far as an hour away. Jeffords attributes that success in part to the pair’s commitment to good hospitality and catering to the region’s tastes.
Part of that commitment was calibrating the spiciness of their dishes to the community. Jeffords said spiciness can be an obstacle for Thai cuisine in the U.S. Heat in dishes can be central to a meal’s flavor profile, Jeffords said, and some dishes don’t work as well without spice at all. But the staff will accommodate all diners, regardless of spice tolerance.
“We really dialed in the proper heat that the community can handle so we don’t blow too many people out,” Jeffords said. “We do get a lot of people who absolutely love super spicy food and they ask us for ‘Thai spicy.’”
Jeffords said he had actually been considering leaving behind the restaurant business to focus on liquor sales, but the opportunity was too good to pass up. So the pair packed up their belongings and moved to Millbrook to start the restaurant.
“It was a nice change,” Jeffords said. “We’re getting used to seeing the stars and laying out in the hammock.”
The move to Millbrook was a return to rural roots for both of them. Jeffords grew up in rural New York between Rochester and Buffalo. Pakaraphag grew up on a rice farm in northeast Thailand. Both said the Hudson Valley’s rural charm was a welcome change of pace after decades in bustling urban restaurants.
Jason Jeffords, left, and his wife, Arunee Pakaraphag, run Thai Baan together out of the Tenmile Distillery.Nathan Miller
Jeffords has 28 years in the hospitality and bartending industry under his belt, starting as a bartender at a restaurant in New York City when he was 22. Pakaraphag similarly started working as a bartender, but she transitioned to the kitchen as her passion for cooking grew.
“Cooking is actually more fun than anything else for me,” Pakaraphag said.
Pakaraphag’s career took her across the globe, beginning at a hotel in Dubai in the United Arab Emirates, to cruise ships, London and eventually New York City.
But Thai Baan was Pakaraphag’s first opportunity to run her own kitchen and design a menu. She said she lacks formal chef training, and refuses to accept the label “chef” as a result.
“I never took a class, I never had a certificate,” Pakaraphag said. “I only learned through my experience.”
Despite the humility, Jeffords said his wife takes full ownership of the kitchen. “These are recipes that Arunee knows far better than me,” Jeffords said. “And they always taste great.”
Jeffords said the restaurant space inside the distillery presented some challenges that the pair had to adapt to. The previous regular crew didn’t utilize the kitchen inside, opting instead to cook out of an Airstream trailer and serve food outside exclusively. That choice was driven by necessity, Jeffords said, as the indoor space wasn’t climate controlled at the time.
But even with heating and air conditioning, temperatures in the large converted barn that the distillery and restaurant occupy can be challenging to control at times. On the hottest days, outside service is cancelled to keep inside temperatures comfortable for diners and waitstaff.
Another challenge is the distance from the kitchen to the dining room. A room full of stills and other liquor producing equipment separates the kitchen from the dining room and bar.
Patrons enjoy an early evening drink at the bar in the Tenmile Distillery on Friday, April 17. Nathan Miller
The space’s beauty outweighs the challenges, the couple said, praising distillery co-owner Eliza Dyson’s interior decorating.
“It’s absolutely beautiful,” Jeffords said.
The interior space is complemented by a scenic view of the Oblong Valley south of Wassaic. Jeffords expects patio dining to open within a few weeks.
And along with patio dining will come a refreshed summer menu, Pakaraphag said, featuring dishes from across Thailand’s distinct regional cuisines.
On Friday nights, Jeffords roasts a whole chicken — soaked in coconut milk and Thai herbs — on a spit over a wood fire in the dining room’s hearth. Jeffords said the chicken is served with a papaya salad, rice and fresh vegetables.
“The best thing about it is when we’re cooking it, it makes the room smell so good,” Jeffords said.
Pakaraphag said authentically recreating the flavors of her home country has always driven her passion for cooking. That desire for authenticity began when she started cooking for herself after leaving home for Dubai, and it continues to factor into her dishes at Thai Baan.
Pakaraphag emphasizes traditional, homestyle recipes for her menus. She puts a focus on homemade touches, hand-rolling spring rolls and dumplings and bringing in her own homegrown vegetables and Thai herbs often.
The couple is so dedicated to authenticity that they make regular trips to New York City for specific ingredients that can’t be sourced from local vendors. The restaurant sources most ingredients from the area or even vegetables from Pakaraphag’s garden at her home in Millbrook.
“It’s a little bit different than how they would probably do it in Thailand,” Jeffords said. “But we’re able to get what we need to make sure the flavors would make any Thai person happy.”
Going into the restaurant’s second summer, Jeffords and Pakaraphag are looking toward the future. Jeffords said the duo is still unsure whether they will pursue an extended residency at the distillery or move Thai Baan to its own space.
“If it was an ideal situation we would try to go off on our own somewhere in the area,” Jeffords said. “But it’s really still left up in the air, to be determined.”
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Minimalist works by Agnes Martin on display at Dia:Beacon.
Martin, the Canadian-born New York and New Mexico resident who died in 2004, made the kind of ambiguous abstract art that inspires countless imitators and interpreters.
At first glance, most of the pieces in the new show, “Painting Is Not the Act of Painting,” (on display until June 22) are variations on simple lines and grids painstakingly applied by the artist’s own hand using paint and pencil.
Despite their relative simplicity, it took Martin years of rejecting her own artwork to reach this level of pure abstraction. She would often take knives to paintings she didn’t like, literally slashing work that didn’t live up to her expectations. It wasn’t until she was in her 50s that she began making the work she would become known for.
That evolution is reflected in the exhibition’s 24 works.
Dia:Beacon seems like a perfect place for them. The museum is a monument to simplicity. Even the most complicated pieces are abstractions in their own ways. A straight, unpainted plywood wall with diagonal backing by Donald Judd suggests a room under construction. Michael Heizer’s singular ovoid boulder embedded into a gallery wall strikes unease into visitors.
Subtle grids and softly layered lines by Agnes Martin draw the eye at Dia:BeaconD.H. Callahan
Martin’s pieces feel at home here. In the context of such visual, if not conceptual, simplicity, her art seems louder than it might in almost any other setting. Faint blue and peach stripes gain vibrancy when compared with the all-white canvases of Robert Ryman or the large gray mirrors of Gerhard Richter, both a few rooms away. By comparison, the visibly human-drawn lines of pencil or etched-out paint seem almost complicated, and technically masterful.
It’s enough to make you ponder the name of the exhibition, “Painting Is Not the Act of Painting,” pulled from a quote by Martin: “Painting is not making paintings; it is a development of awareness. And with this awareness, your work changes, but very slowly.”
In a world where studio assistants and fabricators contribute to the output of many artists, Martin relished the act of painting. She painted nearly every day of her adult life. For her, the process was an integral part of the work, and it’s hard to look at these pieces without appreciating her hand.
This repetitive study is also demonstrated across the hall in a gallery dedicated to a single work by Andy Warhol. The piece, “Shadows,” is a study of variations on a single subject. Warhol took photos of shadows in his office and, using a silkscreen process, painted them 102 times on identically sized canvases.
Walking into the room, it may seem like the same image repeated. On closer inspection, the canvases vary widely in color and composition. The work suggests that repetition can produce unexpected forms.
Agnes Martin has become enshrined as one of the leaders of the minimalist movement of the 1960s and ’70s. Her work and artistic philosophies have inspired countless admirers. This exhibition displays a selection of important pieces from nearly 50 years of practice.
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