Guiding principles for spring gardening

It’s safe to say we deserve a dose of optimism now and spring delivers it to us in the form of nature’s gifts.I have been away for two weeks and am excited to be back among the wildness of the Northwest Corner, to watch life begin to stir above ground and to sense it stirring beneath.This installment of The Ungardener, written on a plane returning from London where spring has gloriously sprung, delivers a short set of guiding principles to keep in mind as you make your gardening choices this spring.Admittedly, they might induce some guilt if they were not followed in the past but, if heeded, I promise they will lead to outcomes of profound optimism.

1. Select plants for their ecosystem purposes, not only for their aesthetic merit

Many, if not most, native insects — such as caterpillars/butterflies — are only able to eat one or a few kinds of plants; they are not able to quickly adapt their diet to other plants and will die if they don’t have them available in quantity. Similarly, newborn and fledgling birds require being fed a diet of caterpillars to survive, and, as just relayed, many caterpillars can only feed on very particular native plants. When we don’t cultivate these native plants in our gardens, we are effectively depriving baby birds of their nutritional requirements for survival. If you remove the food sources for critical species they cannot survive, and the animals that depend on them cannot survive.You end up breaking a link that can have dire circumstances further up the food chain; biodiversity is reduced, creating vulnerabilities for other animals including humans. The Xerces Society has a list of Northeastern native plants that are key for this purpose: https://xerces.org/sites/default/files/publications/22-026_01_NPPBI%E2%80%94Northeast_web.pdfHighlights include:Butterfly milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa), Lanceleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis lancelota), Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum), Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Virginia mountain mint (Pycnanthemum virginianum).

2. Don’t spray for ticks

When you have your yard professionally sprayed for ticks, it’s the yard perimeter that is sprayed. This is where leaf litter houses overwintering caterpillars and other beneficial insects. The spray used is a synthetic and concentrated form of permethrin, a nerve agent, that will kill fireflies, butterflies, many species of bees, beetles and insects including ticks that overwinter in the leaves.That’s a lot of collateral damage, especially as ticks mostly stay away from cut lawns anyway.If you want to minimize tick populations on your property, the safest, most effective and scientifically proven way is to cut back barberry on your property as ticks proliferate on mice that use the spiny barberry shrubs as safe houses from predators.

3. Remove invasive plants

The invasive plants growing in your gardens and in backyards are decimating native ecosystems.Now is a good time to make a plan to get rid of them, but not necessarily to do the work.Larger, woody invasives such as bittersweet, burning bush, honeysuckle, barberry and multiflora rose should wait until about June for removal.Also wait for late summer to tackle Japanese knotweed.Early spring, however, is an excellent time to pull out young, woody invasives and invasive weeds such as narrowleaf bittercress (Cardamine impatiens), and garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolate),as well as creeping plants such vinca major and ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea), as their roots are loosened from the soil just after the thaw.Consider substituting the native species of pachysandra, heuchera, tiarella, violet and/or strawberry.

4. Don’t ignore your soil

While you work outdoors, be careful where you tread.You don’t want to compact the soft and wet soil by walking on it heavily.This is not an easy thing to do if, for example, you are removing vinca, as you really must get into the soil to get the roots.But keep it in mind.Step gingerly to pluck out the offending weeds and then stay off while tender spring plants start to poke through.Now is a good time to get a soil test, especially around areas where you have seen unusual leaf yellowing.At home, our native hollies seem to be struggling and I have a feeling the heavy rains have washed out some critical minerals.As with a blood test for humans, supplementation of the soil starts by testing to finding out what is needed for healthy nutrition.If you have beech trees, you will want to investigate adding phosphite (not phosphate) to the soil.Speak with an arborist who can assist you.Beech Leaf Disease is real and is leading to the death of these important native trees.

5. Soft Landings

Writing about soft landings seems appropriate given my current airborne state, although I am referring to the practice of planting native plants under trees, creating a soft landing area for caterpillars as they descend from the branches where they hatched and begin climbing up plants to feed and to pupate into moths and butterflies.

This will be the focus of my own spring planting efforts this year.I will be mixing ferns with the before mentioned tiarella, violet and strawberry, to plant around the apples, linden, yellow wood and redbud trees that dot our lawn.I expect the effort will reduce our lawn area by 10 percent, a small but not insignificant win for the environment.

Dee Salomon ‘ungardens’ in Litchfield County.