MILLBROOK — When Orvis Sandanona Manager Peggy Long announced that the kitchen would be closed from Monday, June 20, through Friday, July 17, it was with mixed feelings. Long-time and legendary Orvis chef, Jerry Greenland, had just announced he was retiring, and while everyone was happy for the man behind the iron grill, they were also mourning the loss of someone in their kitchen they’ve worked with year in and year out. Not only was Chef Jerry a great chef, but he was a really good friend as well. Long said he had been there since before Sandanona bought the property in 1995.
Asked about his signature dish, most agreed it was his chili — beanless, but meaty — perfect for a shooting club where hungry hunters and fishermen dine, with a nice little kick. Those who still have room left in their bellies like to finish it off with a chunky chocolate chip cookie that melts in their mouth.
There are so many dishes that Chef Jerry is famous for, so many favorites that Orvis diners will miss, that folks are already mourning his retirement. Mostly because they’re missing the man himself, and the cheerful smile and kind word he always seemed to have for everyone.
Chef Jerry said he will miss Orvis, too, and the many friends he made there, but he’s looking forward to all the things he hasn’t had time to enjoy during the past 20 or so years. He said it’s been about 23 years that he worked at Orvis, but Long thought it was more like 25.
Chef Jerry originally wanted to go into the world of women’s fashion, but it wasn’t feasible as he didn’t want to live and work in NYC and preferred the more rural countryside of the Hudson Valley.
He got his first restaurant job at the age of 16, when he was still in high school in Yorktown, just south of Dutchess County in nearby Westchester County. He attended Dutchess Community College in Poughkeepsie and worked at various jobs, but when he was offered a job cooking at Loyola Seminary in Chicago he accepted, and he worked there for a few years.
When that institution closed, he transferred to a job at Mt. Saint Mary High School in Newburgh, back in Dutchess County. From there he went to the University of Vermont, when it opened the Living Learning Center. There he remained for about seven years.
At that point, Chef Jerry decided to open his own restaurant in Shelburne, Vt. He spent about 30 years in Vermont, and only moved back to New York when his mother became ill.
He worked at Slammin’ Salmon in Millbrook for a time and then went to work at Lola’s Café in Poughkeepsie, which is what led him to chef at Orvis.
Making the roughly hour-long commute from his home in Fishkill to Orvis every day could be tough at times, but he acknowledged that he never tired of the beautiful country drive.
In fact, he loves the rural country landscape so much that right after his last day at Orvis on Sunday, June 27, Chef Jerry headed back to Vermont to spend time with friends. It was something he said he was very much looking forward to.
Other things he looked forward to upon his retirement included gardening, not that he’s had much luck with it lately, thanks to the out-of-control deer population in Fishkill.
An animal lover, he might now have time to get another dog. He’s mourning the loss of his 12-year-old collie, “Taurus,” whom he got as a puppy of 8 months; he does have a cat named “Kitty Man.” When he lived in Vermont he also raised geese and chickens.
Chef Jerry said he also wants to spend some time enjoying another hobby now that he lives a life of leisure, restoring classic cars. First, however, he wants to relax and enjoy that time with his friends in Vermont.
Everyone at Orvis was disappointed that he had refused a going away party; he’s low-key and humble, they said, that’s just his way.
Two colleagues at Orvis, Laura Santiago and Patty Esposito, are among those who said they are already missing him.
“We’ve worked with him for a number of years, and there will never be another chef like Jerry,” they agreed.
Those who remain in the kitchen can’t help but notice the hole Chef Jerry left — now they’re just hoping he left something to help fill it — his classic recipes.
Dave Jones, owner and chief mechanic at Lakeville Auto. Laurie Fendrich
Will O’Meara, Jill Verzino and the three hickories.D.H. Callahan
