John Coston
Nico Rosales covers home on a slide score by Red Hook.
Chocolatier Christophe Armero and his wife, Jennie Baird, handcraft small-batch Mudgetown Chocolate in Millerton. Free tastings will be available at Tri-Corner Feed in Millerton on Saturday, Dec. 13, at noon and 3 p.m.
“Our goal is to delight the community with something special,” said Christophe Armero, chocolatier and founder of Mudgetown Chocolate. He describes his product as a “delicious, locally made chocolate that can’t be purchased anywhere else.”
The business began as a retirement passion project for Armero, who spent 38 years in the sugar industry. After moving full-time to Sharon in 2020 from Riverside, Conn., he and his wife, Jennie Baird, began experimenting with chocolate in their barn in 2022. “I realized quickly that it’s very easy to make mediocre chocolate,” Armero joked.
After becoming more interested in the process, he grew determined to master the craft. In 2024, he landed an internship at Dandelion Chocolate in San Francisco, where he learned the tricks of the trade.
“It was a bit intimidating because I was this older guy and all the other chocolatiers were young and very professional,” he laughed. “But they taught me a lot.”
Today, Armero can speak fluently about each step of the chocolate-making process, from sourcing the bean and fermentation to roasting, cracking and “melanging,” most of which is done right here on South Center Street in Millerton.
Tri-Corner Feed’s incubator kitchen
Tri-Corner Feed has a bustling storefront where community members can find locally sourced produce, nutrient-dense groceries and even a chai latte – all with sliding scale prices. And there is just as much action happening behind-the-scenes in their fully licensed commercial kitchen.
It’s here that entrepreneurs and early-stage businesses like Mudgetown Chocolate can roll up their sleeves and create products in an affordable space without the burden of high startup costs.
Armero uses a small, 1-kilogram roaster in Tri-Corner’s kitchen, followed by a cracking and winnowing setup that uses a shop vac to suck out the shells and leave the nibs behind. Then, nibs spend 48 hours or more in a granite stone melanger, where they break down and release natural cacao butter. During this part of the process, the bitterness softens and new flavors develop.
Locally made, globally sourced
Armero and Baird purchase cacao beans directly from small farms and fermentaries in countries like El Salvador, Colombia and Uganda. The couple even traveled to Ecuador to visit one of their producers, prioritizing direct relationships whenever possible, which sets them apart from other commercial producers.
Armero said he hopes to bring more local partners into his chocolate business for future creations. “We’ve made some fantastic chocolate infused with whiskey,” he said, adding that he also has a vision of creating a chocolate bar with crunchy bread crumbs. His goal is to partner with local distilleries and bakeries to make this a reality.
Cacao beans sourced from farms in Uganda, used in Mudgetown Chocolate’s small-batch creations.By Aly Morrissey
Commercial chocolate vs. craft chocolate
Armero said the key differences between commercial chocolate and craft chocolate are “scale and objective.” Big-brand names rely on facilities designed to transform commodity beans into large quantities of uniform chocolate designed to meet the brand’s distinct taste.
Unlike these chocolate giants, Mudgetown Chocolate and other craft makers work in small batches, coaxing the best flavors out of beans. You might get a slightly different flavor with each batch. With only two ingredients in their dark chocolate – cacao and sugar – the results are highly dependent on the bean itself.
Armero said, “We’re always trying to get the best out of the beans.”
Mudgetown Chocolate, handmade in small batches using cacao sourced from farms around the world.By Aly Morrissey
A sensory experience
Armero and Baird describe their upcoming chocolate tasting as a full sensory experience, explaining that tastes can last from 30 seconds to a minute and evolve in that time.
“You get the top notes first, which are usually floral, lighter notes,” said Baird as she bit a chunk of chocolate. “Then you get the mid-notes which tend to be chocolatey and nutty, and then you get the end notes.”
The couple instruct tasters to crunch first, then let the chocolate melt on your tongue. They recommend breathing in through your mouth and out through your nose for the full effect. And, whatever you taste, Armero and Baird say it’s correct. “Everyone’s different,” Armero said. But everyone is right because it’s entirely subjective.”
The chocolate tastings are free and open to the public. They will take place at Tri-Corner Feed at 56 South Center Street in Millerton.
